Jacques Selosse: What’s So Special about the Iconic Substance Cuvée
Jacques Selosse Substance
Jacques Selosse has revolutionized the Champagne region, earning a reputation as a charismatic and visionary winemaker who continues to captivate wine enthusiasts worldwide. Under the stewardship of Anselme Selosse, the winery blends natural farming methods with a Burgundian winemaking philosophy, redefining traditional approaches to Champagne. Their flagship cuvée, Substance, is a masterpiece of craftsmanship, celebrated for its unparalleled flavor and unique solera method of production, with only 3,000 bottles produced annually. Join us as we delve into the innovation and allure of Selosse’s exceptional wines.
Pioneer of Recoltant Manipulant
Jacques Selosse is, without question, one of the most charismatic – or, depending on one’s perspective, eccentric – winemakers currently active in Champagne, a region dominated by powerful corporate maisons. He is a trailblazer of the grower Champagne movement (Récoltant-Manipulant), credited with pioneering a new cultural ethos that has left an indelible mark on the region.
Even Biodynamics Couldn’t Convince Him
The current custodian, Anselme Selosse, operates with an unwavering belief that great wine begins with great grapes. As early as 1991, he began practising biodynamic farming in Champagne, where traditional methods still prevails. Over time, he grew sceptical even of biodynamics, and his thinking was profoundly influenced by the writings of Japanese agriculturalist Masanobu Fukuoka, The One-Straw Revolution. Inspired by Fukuoka’s philosophy, Selosse transitioned to his own version of natural farming. In fact, two years before Fukuoka’s passing, Anselme paid a visit to his home in Ehime, Japan.
Burgundian in Style
Selosse’s winemaking approach is deeply Burgundian. The grapes, sourced exclusively from 35 Chardonnay plots – nearly all of them classified as Grand Cru – are vinified separately in small Burgundian oak barrels acquired from none other than Domaine Leflaive. This practice, groundbreaking at the time, caused quite a stir, as did his use of exceptionally ripe, late-harvested grapes, paired with minimal dosage.
Solera method… for Champagne!?
The flagship cuvée, aptly named Substance, is a Blanc de Blancs from a single vineyard in Avize, the home of Jacques Selosse. This extraordinary wine is crafted using the solera method – perpetually enriched over time. The solera for Substance dates back to the 1980s, creating a stunning complexity and depth that few wines can rival.
Sparkling Montrachet, or, Corton Charlemagne
Often described as a “sparkling Montrachet,” Substance enchants the senses with its voluptuous fruit, underpinned by French oak and a robust, chalky minerality. While rich and layered, it remains remarkably weightless on the palate – a testament to Selosse’s artistry. With only 3,000 bottles produced annually, this wine is as rare as it is exceptional. Indulge in its unparalleled brilliance.